We somehow got lucky and our ferry ended up leaving from Split as scheduled. We arrived in Hvar in the morning and checked into our nice Airbnb right in the center of Hvar Town. It is definitely off season over here. Combine that with it also being Maundy Thursday meant an empty town.

We started our exploration of Hvar by visiting the Hvar fortress before the scheduled thunderstorms hit. After climbing a loooooot of stairs, we made it to the top where we had the most amazing views and got to visit an old prison.

After that hike up and down, we stopped into the highly recommended Dalmatino for the best lunch this trip. I tried the Brudet and Harneet got the pastacido. Both were super delicious. We also got a complementary polenta hors d'oeuvre and some carob brandy appertif and a sweet local port wine at the end.

Stuffed to the gills, we ended up taking a nap. However, we woke up to crazy thunderstorms and heavy winds. So the rest of the day was more staid. Grabbed some quick dinner fixings from the local store and checked in to bed early.

Now remember how I mentioned it was Maundy Thursday. Turns out Croatia is big on Easter and the Holy week. My guess is the town was empty because there is an all night procession that happens between 10PM and 6AM. It has been marked as a UNESCO intangible asset. We thought about checking it out but the villages where it starts were far away and without a car, my research indicated this wouldn't be possible for us to do. Turns out I was wrong, and was woken up at 3AM with the sound of singing. My guess is it made it to St. Stephen's cathedral which was right near where we were staying.

Anyhoo, with the winds, I was worried we would miss our morning catamaran to Korcula since it was cancelled for a few days. However, we woke up to beautiful weather and got on our sometimes bumpy 2 hour catamaran ride to Korcula.

And the weather finally decided to cooperate. We roamed the Korcula old town in the sun, visited a number of chapels and got super lucky to catch a fabulous procession with the chapels and the churches for Good Friday.

Some other fantastic food was black risotto with cuttlefish. Now, I've had squid ink pasta but never ever seen something with this deep of color and delicious!

That was Hvar and Korcula. Next destination is Dubrovnik with a super early ferry in the morning!